Hello All.
Been a while posting but it does not mean i have not been working hard. Was busy running another year of guardcon 40k and it work out a very good weekend. I have been busy painting a mix of things, my eldar my rogue traders and my base for my storm talon.
Only pics i have today are of some addons for the eldar. I am adding in 3 warphunters and bout a lynx for some Apoc games.
The Lynx does not look much bigger than a falcon body but i think once its done it should do.
Enjoy the pics and i will try and get some more pics up of what i have been doing soon.
Lazarus Productions
A Blog about my Warhammer 40k armys and my N scale British Model Trains.
Monday 1 October 2012
Monday 20 August 2012
Storm Talon Complete + Drop Pod
Hello All.
Posting today to show my pics of my Completed Storm Talon, and also i drop pod i have done. Both where done with Salt weathering and are looking nice and fucked up at the same time.
Enjoy
Posting today to show my pics of my Completed Storm Talon, and also i drop pod i have done. Both where done with Salt weathering and are looking nice and fucked up at the same time.
Enjoy
Thursday 9 August 2012
How to detail your salt weathering.
How to do battle damage with Salt!
Part 2
Gear Needed:
-
Rust weathering powder
-
Stiff Brush (not a good one)
-
Fine detail brush
-
Detail brush
-
Water and a mixing tub (for paint)
-
Black Wash
-
GW Codex Gray or other brand
-
Flat clear spray
Step – 01
Get a small clump of the weathering powder and put it into
your mixing tub. Now add one or two drops of water, you want the powder to
become like a watered down paint and not like clumps of mud. Now get a detail
brush and paint the rust paint we just made into the areas you want to rust up.
This will be on areas that would get heavily worn or around the battle damage
you have just made. But when painting this on you want to paint a vertical line
and then drag the paint down like you would do a wash. We are doing this to
show where it has rained and dripped and stained that paint. This is what it
should look like.
Step – 02
Now over the rust you have just painted on you want to pull
your finger down wards a few times to rub in the power and make it more real. .
If you can’t get to some areas with your finger this is where your stuff brush
comes in. Once you have most of the rust rubbed down you can now use the powder
on your thumb to detail other areas it you want. Hint: it’s good on the edges
like around the window frame as shown. Any errors you have made you can wash
off with some nail varnish and an ear bud. As the model is already got its
clear coat one from the first tutorial you won’t damage any of your paint. Once
happy give the model a spray of the clear coat if you don’t do this step the
powders won’t stick and will rub off and destroy all your work.
Step – 03
Now we want to get the codex gray paint and mix about 50/50
with water. Get a very small detail brush this will work the best for this
step. Now on all the damage we have done we want to give it a little depth on
the larger bits of damage you want to paint a thin gray line only at the bottom
of the damage. For the odd shaped ones you can be creative but you want to
paint the gray on vertical lines to give it a shadow like look. I find it best
to just leave the smaller damage chips as they are.
Step – 04
Now we are complete for the damage detailing, at this point
on I will just be showing you how the completed body ended out looking. In this
stage it got my black wash and filled in the recesses and detail I wanted to
bring out.
Step – 05
In this part I did the standard detail you would paint the
lights on the front and the eagle on the front and the antennas.
And here you have a completed model well not fully for me I
now need to do all these steps again for the rest of the model. This would take
about 4-6 to get to this point with drying times it’s a quick and easy way to
make something look more real and needs very little skill. I don’t count myself
as an expert just an average painter who struggles just as much as the rest.
Saturday 4 August 2012
Warrior Alien
I did this a few years back and very few have seen this. Its 1/6ths scale it was bought from ebay and forgot the cost around $100. If you know me i am quite in love with the alien films and always trying to find models as true to the movies as possible this is quite hard. As most of the models out there are just action fingers and are over priced crap.
Titan is Finished!!!!!
Monday 30 July 2012
How to do battle damage with Salt!
Gear Needed:
- - A Model
- - Model Primer
- - Matt Spray
- - Base Coat (can be spray can or done with air brush)
- - Hair Spray (try not to get wet look or glossy)
- - Rock Salt
- - A container
- - Tooth Brush (kids ones I find better and smaller)
Step – 01
Make sure your model is made and all flash removed and mold
lines. I recommend trying to do the model in parts like shown to get a better
end result.
Step – 02
Primer the model this can be any color you wish depending on
your main color. But remember this will be showing though in the end so you
want it to look like a primer color. Just like when get chip on your car and
you see the gray primer under that this is the effect you are going for. You
could also add in an extra step here and also lightly spray a rust color over
the top of the primer to make it look like it has start rusting to. Just
remember to do a very light mist you still want to see mostly primer.
Step – 03
While we wait for the primer to dry get out your rock salt
and container. I prefer the rock salt that comes with the grinder bit on the
top and this is why. You don’t want the salt all the same damage to paint is
not consistent. So you want a mix the normal size rock salt with some finer
rock salt. About 50/50 mix is nice, use the grinder on the salt to make some
random smaller sizes and them mix in some normal size salt. If you don’t have a
grinder on the salt container you can just crush it with something.
Step – 04
For this step the amount of salt you want to put on is up to
you. First we spray the model with the hair spray do a nice even coat so the
model goes all glossy. Don’t overdo it as it will run and affect the end
result. Now quickly before it dry’s sprinkle your salt mix all over it or where
you want the damage to show. Once that is done just give it a light shake to
get any really lose bits off.
Step – 05
Easy step now once the hair spray had dried spray the whole
model with your base color. Note that if you get the wrong hair spray it may
not dry and stay glossy and sticky we don’t want this. Make sure you use hair
spray that does not say wet look or glossy.
Step – 06
Once your base color is dry get your tooth brush and run a
skink full of just warm water put your model in the water and scrub all the
salt off. You need to make sure it’s wet or the salt won’t come off. Don’t
worry if you can’t get all the small little bits off as this adds to the
effect.
Step – 07
Once you have dried out the model from taking a swim just
look over it and make sure you have not missed any big bits of salt and you
don’t have white powdering on the model. This is salt left on the model give it
another wash and scrub. Once happy with model you want to seal all that work
you have just done in, give the whole model a good coat of Matt varnish and you
are done.
End of part one
Next how to detail your salt damage.
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